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Where the beach front apartments stop, and the promenade disappears off the horizon arched by endless palm trees and the occasional cyclist or in-line skater disturbing the mirage with a swirl of movement. We are heading east out of the city of Almería taking the beach road in the direction of the new urbanisation 'El Toyo' passing the desalination plant that produces life giving water to feed to endless square miles of greenhouses that are the lifeblood of the vegetable sections of supermarkets across Europe.
It's mid-morning and already the temperature is approaching 24º according to the digital
thermometer on the road side advertising sign, highlighting the promotion of another tastefully designed apartment block to be build on the slowly extending beach line of Nuevo Andalucia. We are two friends on cycles out for one of many tours of the Parque Natural de Cabo de Gata located at the eastern edge of the Costa de Almeria playas.
The plan is an overnight trip out into the western side of the Parque for a fine fish supper at an unscheduled beachfront restaurant, of which there are many in the coastal towns of the Cabo. Our next feature is the Waterworks. The pungent odors of Almería's overnight waste alerts us to it's arrival. Process is in place to utilise innovative cleansing techniques to purify this 'black' water sufficiently that it may be used to supplement irrigation for the planned explosion of golf in the region or further fields of intensive soft vegetable agriculture.
Soon we have passed the airport noting the bright orange tail-fin of the midday Easyjet flight waiting on the tarmac in ready ness to ingest another meal of bright pink lobster-like tourists for the journey back to the UK where they can peal under the dull north eastern sky. Above us there is an endless deep blue canvas, fringed only at the edges by a puff of white where the horizon meets the blue blanket of the Mediterranean towards the African coast. Crossing the luminous green fairways of 'El Toyo' golf resort, the peninsular of Cabo de Gata is now in much clearer sight. Once Retamar disappears behind us, the Cabo starts. Guarded firstly by fields of Pita stalks, an unbalanced plant originally native to South America. |
The first signs of typical local architecture are located at the road junction where the San Miguel del Cabo de Gata route splits right, marked by the hull of an old fishing boat. Cortijos de Torre Marcelo, low level roughly constructed dwellings with small normally square towers and thick walls are ideal for keeping the interiors cool in the heat of the summer sun. We turn east in the direction of San José and soon arrive at El Pozo de los Frailes.
Waterwheels are a culture of the Cabo de Gata and here lies a perfectly restored example last used in 1983. 'Norias de sangre' or blood waterwheels as they are locally know marking their importance in the life of the villagers. The town of Pozo has a clearly Arabesque flavour with heritage deep rooted in farming. Life revolves around the waterwheel and this is where the villagers meet to distribute the daily chores.
Now we feel the touch of the ocean cooled air on our faces as we descend toward the seaside resort of San José. Nestled in a bay below the Punta Cala Higuera San José in one of the tourist centres of the reserve. Once a small fishing hamlet, the remains of old troglodyte cave homes can be found in the area. San José offers a wide range of tourist accommodation including a camp site and some friendly budget hostels. We opt for a bungalow on the campsite leaving enough time to head west for a glimpse of the beautiful beaches at Playa de los Genoveses and Playa del Mónsul possibly two of the finest in Almería.
Later we dine on the large terrace overlooking the beach at San Josés La Atrevida restaurant. Although commercial fishing is banned in the area around Cabo de Gata, the fishing harbour in the town serves to keep the many fine restaurants well stocked with fresh fish. Our meal tonight is local specialty parrillada de marisco y pescado, as the name suggests a delicious mix of fish and seafood.
The following morning we take the 2 hour coastal cycle track past the 18.C castle San Felipe and down to the natural breakwaters of Los Escullos. Although very flat, the track passes the high point of the park Cerros de los Frailes at 493 metres. Los Escullos is a incredible enclave of the parque with landscape formed by fossilised dunes. Standing on the rocky headland above the village it's easy to imaging the north African Berber pirates prey on the locals villages and hence the reason for the castles.
As we return to Almería with the late afternoon sun in our faces, already we plan the next trip.
Credits Andy Stevenson
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